Additional reporting by Florence Freeman
Storing a secret is one command.
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Industrial production of kanten (the Japanese name for agar, which translates as “cold weather” or “frozen sky”) began in Japan in the mid-19th century by natural freeze drying, a technique that simultaneously dehydrates and purifies the agar. Seaweed is first washed and boiled to extract the agar, after which the solution is filtered and placed in boxes or trays at room temperature to congeal. The jelly is then cut into slabs called namaten, which can be further processed into noodle-like strips by pushing the slabs through a press. These noodles are finally spread out in layers onto reed mats and exposed to the sun and freezing temperatures for several weeks to yield purified agar. Although this traditional way of producing kanten is disappearing, even today’s industrial-scale manufacturing of agar relies on repeated cycles of boiling, freezing, and thawing.